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Florida Conventional loans · the honest comparison

Conventional loans in Florida.Would I recommend one for you?

Conventional is where I start for most buyers with stronger credit. But you do not need 20% down, and I do not want you emptying your savings just to avoid private mortgage insurance (PMI). I compare the monthly payment, cash left after closing and how long you expect to keep the loan—then show you what I would choose and why.

See Conventional Rates
The short answerStart with Conventional. Keep enough cash. Make the complete payment fit.
  • Originating since 2001
  • Florida mortgage broker
  • No application fee
Shahram Sondi, Florida mortgage broker
Shahram SondiCertified Mortgage Advisor™ · NMLS 186790

Conventional in 30 seconds

What is a conventional loan—and how little can you put down?

A conventional loan is a mortgage that is not backed by FHA, VA or USDA. Eligible buyers may put as little as 3% down, while many standard primary-home purchases start at 5%. PMI usually applies below 20% down. Your credit, income, debts, assets and property determine whether it fits—and in Florida I check insurance, taxes and association costs before calling the payment comfortable.

01
Your paymentPrincipal + interest · taxes · insurance · PMI · HOA
02
Your cashDown payment · closing costs · reserves after closing
03
Your timelineHow long you expect to keep the home or mortgage

Explore the Conventional guide

What do you need help figuring out?

You do not need to read this page from top to bottom. Start with the question that matters to you, or open the complete guide.

Florida Conventional decision field guide

Find the answer you need.

Complete guideChoose one and jump directly there

Qualification

What does it take to qualify for a Conventional loan?

No single score or debt ratio guarantees approval. The lender verifies your credit history, income, monthly debts, assets, occupancy and the property. Most files I handle then go through Fannie Mae’s Desktop Underwriter or Freddie Mac’s Loan Product Advisor; manual underwriting can apply in some cases.

01Credit profile
Fannie Mae’s DU no longer uses one universal minimum third-party score as its approval gate. In real lending, many lenders, mortgage insurers and programs still apply score requirements, and your score still affects price. That is why 620 can be a practical starting point without being an automatic approval.
02Income
Income must be stable, documentable and expected to continue. Base salary is usually simpler. Bonus, commission, overtime, self-employment and rental income normally require more history and analysis.
03Debt ratio
I generally plan around a total debt-to-income ratio near 45% or below. Automated underwriting may allow more or require less. I still work backward from the complete payment you are comfortable carrying.
04Cash and reserves
Underwriting verifies the down payment, closing funds, gift funds when used and any required reserves. My second question is what remains in your bank account after closing.
05Home and occupancy
A perfect borrower cannot make an ineligible property financeable. Primary, second-home or investment occupancy, condition, value and condo or project requirements all affect the result.

What the system answers

Can this file be approved?The complete risk profile plus proof of the information submitted

What I also answer

Does the complete mortgage fit your life?The payment, cash after closing, reserves and what you plan to do next
“Do not buy a house based on the maximum mortgage somebody can approve. Buy around the payment that still lets you live your life.”
My affordability rule

Fannie Mae’s Desktop Underwriter and Freddie Mac’s Loan Product Advisor assess the full loan profile. An Approve/Eligible or Accept finding is not final approval. The lender still verifies every document and condition, and a change before closing can change the result.

Down payment strategy

How much should you put down on a Conventional loan?

Eligible first-time buyers may have a 3% option on a one-unit primary residence, and many standard primary-home purchases start around 5%. The Florida first-time homebuyer guide compares that path with FHA, VA and assistance. The strategic answer is enough to reach a comfortable payment without draining the cash you need after closing. Twenty percent can remove monthly PMI, but it is not automatically the best plan.

The 20% myth

20%Often removes monthly borrower-paid PMI
<20%Often keeps more cash under your control
Best fitPayment + liquidity + debt + timeline

The right answer depends on the actual PMI quote, rate, complete payment, other debt and how much money remains after closing. I compare those numbers together.

Where the same cash can work

Every extra dollar down has another possible job.

01 · Preserve liquidity

Keep the rainy-day fund.

On a $500,000 purchase, moving from 20% to 10% down keeps $50,000 liquid before other cost differences. If the PMI is modest and the payment still fits, that cash may be more valuable as six to twelve months of reserves.

02 · Eliminate expensive debt

Put $25,000 against the credit cards.

On a $500,000 purchase, moving from 20% to 15% down keeps $25,000 available before other cost differences. If you use it to pay off expensive credit-card debt, compare the card payments you eliminate with the extra mortgage principal and interest, PMI and any rate change. That may improve monthly cash flow, but I also check the longer-term cost and the cash you will have left.

03 · Reduce the mortgage

Put more down when the cash is truly available.

More money down reduces the loan balance and monthly principal and interest. It may also improve the rate or PMI. When adequate reserves already remain, that can be the better trade.

04 · Avoid monthly PMI

Twenty percent still has a real benefit.

With a standard Conventional structure at 20% down, monthly borrower-paid PMI is typically unnecessary. Measure that savings against the cash you give up instead of treating 20% as a rule.

The order I use

Work backward from the life you want after closing.

  1. 01

    Set the complete payment

    Use principal and interest, realistic property taxes after reassessment, homeowners insurance, PMI and HOA dues. The payment target comes first.

  2. 02

    Protect the reserves

    Decide what must remain for job changes, repairs and the unexpected. Six to twelve months can create real peace of mind when the available cash allows it; it is a personal target, not a universal underwriting rule.

  3. 03

    Compare the expensive debt

    A dollar used to eliminate high-interest debt may improve monthly cash flow more than the same dollar used to reduce the mortgage. Compare the actual obligations.

  4. 04

    Choose the down payment

    Now compare the rate, PMI, payment and cash remaining at several down payments. The goal is the down payment that fits the whole plan—not the biggest down payment.

“Cash is king when something goes wrong. I would rather see you pay reasonable temporary PMI than close with no reserves and become house poor.”
The right down payment protects the payment and the cash you may need later.

These examples are illustrations, not quotes. Actual PMI, rate, payment, closing costs and qualification depend on the complete application, property, lender, mortgage insurer and market.

Private mortgage insurance

PMI is not a punishment. It is the price of using less cash.

With less than 20% down, a Conventional loan will generally require mortgage insurance. The premium is not one fixed number. Credit, down payment, property, occupancy, term, debt ratio and the borrower setup can all change the quote.

A simple illustration

Same $500,000 purchase. Same 5% down. Very different PMI.

Primary residence · 30-year fixed · one borrower · figures rounded from one pricing illustration, not a current mortgage-insurance quote
Illustrative score780
≈ $150per month
Reference vs. the 780 example

With strong credit, PMI may be small enough that keeping more cash can be the better complete strategy.

Illustrative score680
≈ $380per month
About 2.5× vs. the 780 example

The same purchase can carry a materially higher premium before any difference in the mortgage rate is considered.

Illustrative score620
≈ $562per month
About 3.7× vs. the 780 example

At this level, I would normally compare FHA beside Conventional because both the rate and PMI can move against the borrower.

CreditScore
EquityLTV
LoanTerm + DTI
FileBorrowers
The number that mattersPMI quote

How the premium can be paid

Four ways to structure the same insurance.

I do not automatically choose lender-paid MI or monthly MI. I compare the complete payment, cash due at closing and the likely time before the mortgage is sold, refinanced or paid off.
01 · Monthly borrower-paidUsually my starting point

No large premium is due upfront. PMI is shown separately in the monthly payment and the payment can fall when the monthly coverage is cancelled.

02 · Single premiumPay it once

The premium may be paid at closing or financed when permitted. It can work when cash or seller concessions are available and the borrower expects to keep the mortgage long enough to justify the upfront cost.

03 · Split premiumPart now, less each month

A portion is paid upfront and the rest is monthly. This can create a middle ground when the goal is a lower payment without using enough cash for a full single premium.

04 · Lender-paid MINo separate PMI line does not mean free

The lender pays the premium and commonly recovers the cost through a higher rate or lender charge. The coverage generally remains for the life of that loan, so compare the payment and timeline instead of reacting to a “no PMI” label.

“PMI is not the decision. The decision is what the PMI costs compared with the cash it allows you to keep.”
Price the tradeoff. Do not guess.

How monthly borrower-paid PMI can end

Do not assume you must pay it forever.

Balance reaches 80% of original value—on schedule or sooner through extra principalYou may request cancellation
Scheduled balance reaches 78% of original valueGenerally terminates automatically
Midpoint of the original amortization scheduleA separate automatic backstop
Equity created by appreciation or improvementsInvestor and servicer rules apply

Cancellation can require a written request, acceptable payment history, proof of value and no disqualifying junior lien. High-risk loans and lender-paid MI can follow different rules. Your servicer makes the final determination.

My PMI testCompare the mortgage rate, PMI, complete payment and cash remaining—not one line item by itself.

Strong credit can make temporary PMI a reasonable price for keeping liquidity. Weaker credit can make Conventional PMI expensive enough that FHA deserves a side-by-side comparison. I will show you the options and explain the tradeoffs before you choose.

Florida reality check

What can change the numbers on a Florida home?

A Florida home can fit on paper until the insurance quote or association documents arrive. Before you commit, I want a buyer-specific tax estimate, property-specific insurance and every association charge—not just principal and interest.

  • Homeowners and flood insuranceObtain the homeowners quote early and check the roof information the insurer requests. If the lender’s flood determination requires coverage, add that separate policy to the payment.
  • Property taxes after purchaseDo not assume the seller’s tax bill carries over. Florida removes the prior exemptions and reassesses after a change of ownership, so use a buyer-specific estimate from the county property appraiser.
  • HOA, condo and CDD chargesAdd dues and recurring assessments to the housing budget. Confirm whether a CDD charge is already inside the property-tax estimate so it is not counted twice.
  • Condo project approvalThe borrower and the project both have to qualify. Master insurance, budgets, reserves, assessments, litigation and critical repairs can change eligibility, so start the review early.
  • Property conditionCosmetic wear is different from a safety, structural or insurability problem. Serious roof or structural deficiencies may need repair or a renovation-loan strategy before closing.

Conventional Loan Explorer

Build the structure before anyone sells you a rate.

Start with the price, occupancy, down payment and term you are considering. I will show the working loan amount, loan-to-value, likely PMI position, 2026 conforming baseline comparison and the next option I would test. Nothing is saved, and this is not an approval or quote—it is the math and strategy to organize the real conversation.

Your loan choices

Nothing here is submitted, saved or credit-checked. The results update as you change these values.

The contract price, or the price you are planning around.

First-time buyer under the standard three-year definition?

Generally, this means you have not owned a principal residence during the previous three years. Program definitions and exceptions can vary. Eligible borrowers may have a 3% down option on a one-unit primary residence.

Property units
Down payment

Add a purchase price and I'll show the dollar amount alongside the percentage.

Preferred mortgage term

Term changes the required principal-and-interest payment and payoff speed. This explorer does not estimate the rate, taxes, insurance, HOA dues or PMI premium.

Your working structure

What these choices mean

  • Purchase price
  • Down payment
  • Estimated base loan
  • Loan-to-value95%
  • Preferred term30 years

Mortgage insurance generally expected

Above 80% loan-to-value, a Conventional loan generally carries mortgage insurance. The cost depends on your credit profile, the required coverage and the mortgage insurer — not on the down payment alone.

5% is the common starting point for a repeat buyer. Standard options for buyers who are not first-time buyers commonly begin around 5% down. Eligible affordable programs may allow 3% for some qualified repeat buyers — that depends on income, location and program eligibility, and it does not apply to every repeat buyer.

5% meets the common starting point for this loan. Mortgage insurance would generally still be part of the picture below 20%, and the cost of it is set by the complete profile.

A longer term prioritizes payment flexibility. A 25–30 year term generally lowers the required principal-and-interest payment and leaves room to pay extra voluntarily. If held for the full term, it can also mean more total interest, so compare it with the timeline you actually expect.

The standard 2026 baseline for one unit is $832,750. Add a purchase price and a down payment to compare. The standard 2026 baseline for one unit is $832,750, and designated high-cost counties can be higher.

Compare the complete cost before choosing a rate

This loan is worth pricing. The decision is the complete picture — rate, mortgage insurance, money needed at closing, the term and the reserves you keep afterwards.

See today's Conventional rate options

Educational planning only. These are common starting points and estimated figures based on what you entered — not an approval, a pre-approval, a commitment to lend, a rate quote or a mortgage-insurance quote. Eligibility, pricing and mortgage insurance depend on automated underwriting, verified documents, the property and county, mortgage-insurance approval and current lender and program requirements.

Credit and pricing

What changes your conventional rate and PMI?

Conventional pricing is risk-based. Credit can affect the rate and the cost of that rate, and below 20% down it can also materially change PMI. But the score is never standing alone. The equity, occupancy, property, purpose and complete credit history all stack on top of it.

How Conventional pricing is built

The adjustments are cumulative. One number never controls the answer.

Fannie Mae’s current pricing matrix applies loan-level adjustments for characteristics such as credit score, loan-to-value, occupancy, units, purpose and product. The lender then turns that combined price into the rate, points or credit you see.
CreditScore + history
EquityLTV bucket
PropertyOccupancy + units
LoanPurpose + term
The resultOne file. One combined price. Several ways to structure it.

What moves the price

Credit is important, but it is not the only input.

  • Credit profileThe score sets a pricing band; the history behind it still affects underwriting and mortgage insurance.
  • Loan-to-valuePricing moves in LTV buckets, so a small down-payment change can sometimes cross a meaningful threshold.
  • OccupancyA primary home, second home and investment property do not carry the same risk or adjustments.
  • Property and unitsA condominium, manufactured home, single-family house and 2–4 unit property can price differently.
  • Loan purposeA purchase, limited cash-out refinance and cash-out refinance are separate pricing structures.
  • Product and termFixed versus adjustable and shorter versus longer terms can change the market price and available options.
“The score is the headline. The credit report is the story.”
A 780 does not erase a recent major event. A 620 does not tell me why the score is 620.

What the score can hide

I read the history behind the number.

TradelinesToo few seasoned accounts can make a thin file harder even when the score looks acceptable.
Revolving utilizationCards near their limits can signal more risk than the same accounts with room available.
Payment historyRecent late payments, collections or repeated problems can matter more than the number alone.
Major credit eventsBankruptcy, foreclosure and similar events can carry waiting periods that a recovered score does not erase.
My credit testI price the credit you have today, then show whether improving it is actually worth waiting for.

I do not tell every borrower to chase a higher score. Sometimes a realistic change can improve the rate or PMI enough to matter. Sometimes the cost of waiting is greater than the savings. The only honest answer is to compare the current file, the improvement that is actually achievable and FHA when it belongs beside it.

See how credit affects PMI

Program comparison

Conventional is my starting point. It is not my automatic answer.

The program name comes after the math. I hold the transaction constant, price the realistic alternatives and show which structure best protects your payment, cash and time horizon.

When I open another lane

Five comparisons that can change the recommendation.

  1. 01

    Government-insured

    FHA

    When lower-credit pricing changes the answer

    I put FHA beside Conventional when a lower score, higher debt ratio or recent credit history makes the Conventional approval or PMI less favorable.

    What it may solve
    FHA can allow 3.5% down and may produce the lower complete payment for some lower-score, smaller-down-payment files.
    What I still verify
    Upfront and monthly FHA mortgage insurance, the county loan limit, property condition and the complete payment.
    Explore FHA options
  2. 02

    Earned benefit

    VA

    When eligibility can preserve the most cash

    I check VA whenever a Veteran, eligible service member or eligible surviving spouse is buying a primary home.

    What it may solve
    Qualified borrowers may buy with no down payment and no monthly private mortgage insurance.
    What I still verify
    Certificate of Eligibility, entitlement, occupancy, the funding fee or exemption, appraisal requirements and the full payment.
    Explore VA options
  3. 03

    Loan-size route

    High-balance / Jumbo

    When the county limit—not the home price—sets the lane

    I check the property’s county and unit count when the loan approaches the 2026 one-unit baseline of $832,750.

    What it may solve
    A loan above the national baseline can still be conforming in an eligible high-cost county; above the applicable county limit, I compare Jumbo.
    What I still verify
    The exact county limit, reserves, appraisal, property type, income documentation and the underwriting requirements behind the quote.
    Explore Jumbo options
  4. 04

    Investment · non-agency

    DSCR

    When the property’s cash flow needs to qualify

    I compare DSCR on an investment property when tax-return or employment income does not support the Conventional file.

    What it may solve
    An eligible rental property may qualify primarily through its documented rental cash flow instead of the borrower’s personal income.
    What I still verify
    How the lender calculates DSCR, rent documentation, rate, down payment, reserves, fees, prepayment terms and lender-specific rules.
    Explore DSCR options
  5. 05

    Affordable Conventional

    3% down / Assistance

    When cash to close is the real obstacle

    I test eligible 3% down Conventional programs and available assistance when the payment fits but the upfront cash does not.

    What it may solve
    HomeReady, Home Possible, HomeOne or an eligible assistance program may reduce the buyer’s required upfront cash.
    What I still verify
    First-time status when required, income and property limits, education, assistance repayment or forgiveness terms and the complete payment.
    Compare Florida first-time buyer options
“I do not care which program wins. I care which option leaves you in the strongest position after closing.”
Approval is the first test. Payment, cash left and timeline make the decision.

My recommendation

Price the alternatives before you commit to the label.

For stronger credit, Conventional often wins. FHA can win when credit or PMI moves against the borrower. VA deserves a comparison whenever there is eligible service. A large loan, investment property or limited cash-to-close can open a different route. I will show the math and let you choose with confidence.

CFPB — compare loan typesVA — home loan benefitsFHFA — 2026 conforming limitsFannie Mae — HomeReady

Shopping the loan

Same borrower. Same day. Different price.

Fannie Mae and Freddie Mac publish the guidelines. They do not set your mortgage rate. The market, lender margin, compensation, fees, lock period and the way costs are paid can make two Conventional quotes look completely different.

The apples-to-apples test

Do not compare a rate to a rate.

Compare written Loan Estimates built on the same transaction. If the loan amount, lock period, points or credits are different, you are not looking at the same deal.
  1. 01
    Same loanLoan amount · program · term · occupancy
  2. 02
    Same timingSame day · same lock period · locked or floating
  3. 03
    Rate and tradeoffInterest rate · discount points · lender credits
  4. 04
    Lender chargesOrigination charges and lender-controlled fees
  5. 05
    Complete resultMonthly payment · cash to close · APR

Three ways to pay the lender costs

The lowest rate is not automatically the best structure.

01

Pay points

More cash now. Lower payment.

This can fit a long holding period when the monthly savings recover the upfront cost early enough to matter.

02

Zero or limited points

Keep the tradeoff balanced.

This is often the cleanest starting point because it avoids paying heavily for a rate before the timeline is known.

03

Take a lender credit

Keep more cash. Accept the higher rate.

This can fit a shorter timeline or a buyer whose reserves matter more today than a modest payment difference.

Use the available money strategically

Closing-cost help can be worth more than a prettier rate.

Seller concession

Ask when the market gives you leverage.

An eligible seller contribution can cover closing costs and prepaid items within the conventional limits. It does not replace the down payment. A higher price can increase the amount borrowed and the interest paid, so I compare the negotiated credit, appraisal, payment and cash remaining instead of assuming the concession is free.

Cash kept after closing is part of the return.
Builder’s preferred lender

If the builder is offering real money, count every dollar.

A builder’s lender may have a higher rate and still produce the better deal because of a large incentive. I compare the incentive you would lose against the monthly savings another lender offers. If giving up $15,000 or $20,000 takes years to recover, I will tell you to use the builder’s lender—even when that means I do not get the loan.

Incentive surrenderedBuilder money
Monthly savings elsewherePayment difference
Rough breakevenMonths to recover

Take their money when the current math wins, then let me re-check a refinance after closing. A refinance is never guaranteed: the future rate, costs, value, credit, income and qualification all have to work at that time.

“If another lender has the better complete deal, I will tell you to use them. I would rather lose the loan than cost you more money.”
The recommendation has to survive the math—not my commission.

My quote review

Send me the Loan Estimate. I will show you what is actually different.

I compare the rate, APR, points, lender credits, lender-controlled fees, lock period and cash to close on the same scenario. A small APR difference rarely decides the loan by itself. The best choice is the structure that fits your available cash, comfortable payment and realistic timeline.

CFPB — compare Loan EstimatesCFPB — points and lender creditsFannie Mae — seller contributions

Your decision

You choose the mortgage. My job is to make the choice obvious.

I will tell you what I would do, but I will not hide the other options. Choose the initial down payment, term and cost structure carefully; later changes may require a refinance, while extra principal or an eligible recast can address only part of the plan. You should see the tradeoffs before you sign.

What I give you

One recommendation. The alternatives beside it.

No one-size-fits-all answer and no single Loan Estimate presented as if it were your only choice. I organize the structures around the life you want after closing.
Down paymentCompare eligible 3%, 5%, 10%, 15% and 20% structures
Mortgage insuranceCompare available monthly, upfront, split and lender-paid choices
Rate and costsCompare points, limited points and lender-credit structures
Mortgage termCompare standard terms and, when the lender and product allow, whole-year terms from 10 to 30 years

What happens next

A conversation first. The paperwork when the direction makes sense.

  1. 01

    Tell me the goal

    We start with the home, comfortable payment, available cash, reserves and expected timeline—not the maximum a system might approve.

  2. 02

    I build the comparisons

    I test the down payment, PMI, term, points or credits and any FHA, VA, Jumbo or other route that belongs beside Conventional.

  3. 03

    You choose the structure

    I explain the tradeoffs and answer every question. You decide which payment, cash position and timeline fit your life.

  4. 04

    We verify and preapprove

    When you are ready, we complete the application, review the documents and issue the strongest preapproval the verified file supports.

“There is no perfect mortgage. There is the best decision you can make with the information and options in front of you.”
My job is to make sure the right information is actually in front of you.

Ready when you are

Let’s build the option that fits your payment and protects your cash.

Start with a quick conversation. You do not need to know which program, down payment or term to ask for—that is the work I will do with you. If you want to understand what happens after that conversation, read how I build a document-reviewed Florida mortgage preapproval.
  • Same-day preapproval may be possible with a complete application and the required documents
  • No application fee
  • Direct access to Shahram

Conventional loan FAQs

Conventional loan questions, answered.

Start with the direct answer. Where the result depends on the borrower, property, pricing or timeline, I explain what still has to be verified.

01BasicsWhat is a Conventional loan?

A conventional loan is a mortgage that is not insured or guaranteed by a government program such as FHA, VA or USDA. Most conventional mortgages are conforming loans that meet Fannie Mae or Freddie Mac rules and the applicable county loan limit. Conventional also includes non-conforming products such as jumbo loans, so conventional and conforming are related terms—not identical ones.

02Program choiceIs a Conventional loan a good choice?

It can be an excellent choice when the approval, total payment and cash position work together. Stronger-credit borrowers often find conventional pricing and cancellable PMI attractive, while eligible FHA or VA financing may produce the better result for another file. I would not call any program good or bad until the same borrower, property, cash and timeline have been compared side by side.

03Program choiceConventional or FHA: which is better for me?

Neither is automatically better. FHA is not only for first-time buyers, and eligible first-time buyers are not limited to FHA. Conventional often works well with stronger credit and can offer cancellable PMI; FHA can be the stronger choice when credit, debt ratio, recent credit history or mortgage-insurance pricing makes conventional less favorable. I price both using the same purchase price, down payment, taxes, insurance and time horizon.

04QualificationIs it harder to qualify for a Conventional loan?

It can be harder than FHA when the credit history, debt ratio, reserves or recent major credit events are less favorable. But there is no universal answer and no single score guarantees approval. The lender reviews the complete file, usually through Fannie Mae’s Desktop Underwriter or Freddie Mac’s Loan Product Advisor; manual underwriting and lender or mortgage-insurance requirements can also apply.

05CreditWhat credit score is needed for a Conventional loan in 2026?

Automated underwriting evaluates the complete file rather than relying on one universal score cutoff. Approximately 620 remains a common practical starting point among many lenders, mortgage insurers and programs, while a score around 680 or higher generally creates a stronger path—especially with a smaller down payment or higher DTI. Final eligibility and pricing depend on the complete loan profile and available lender requirements.

06Down paymentHow much down do I need for a Conventional mortgage?

It depends on what you are financing. Eligible first-time buyers may have a 3% down option on a one-unit primary residence, and many standard options for other primary-home buyers begin around 5%. A second home commonly starts around 10% down. A one-unit investment purchase may begin around 15% down, though 20%–25% can materially improve pricing and qualification, and multi-unit properties generally require more. These are common starting points, not approvals.

07Down paymentDo I need 20% down for a Conventional loan?

No. Twenty percent down usually avoids monthly borrower-paid PMI, but that does not make it the best overall decision. I compare 5%, 10%, 15% and 20% down when they are eligible, then show the loan amount, rate, PMI, total payment and cash remaining. Keeping reserves or eliminating expensive credit-card debt can be worth more than avoiding a reasonable temporary PMI payment.

08Cash neededHow much money do I need altogether for a Conventional loan?

Plan for two separate numbers: the money due at closing and the money you need left afterward. Cash to close includes the down payment and closing costs, adjusted for deposits and eligible seller or lender credits. Prepaid interest and initial tax and insurance deposits can be part of those closing costs. The lender may also require reserves that remain available after closing.

09TradeoffsWhat are the disadvantages of a Conventional loan?

Conventional underwriting and pricing can be less forgiving when credit, debt ratio, reserves or recent credit history are weaker. PMI and rate adjustments are risk-based, so two approved borrowers can receive very different costs. A low-down-payment conventional loan can also cost more than an FHA or VA alternative for a particular file. The disadvantage is choosing it without comparing the full cost and approval path.

10Mortgage insuranceWhen can PMI be removed from a Conventional loan?

For many covered loans, you may request cancellation when the scheduled principal balance reaches 80% of the home’s original value. Additional principal payments can create an earlier request path. Cancellation is subject to a written request, payment history, value and other legal and servicing requirements. Automatic termination generally occurs when the scheduled balance reaches 78% and the loan is current. Appreciation or improvements may create another path under the investor and servicer’s rules. Lender-paid mortgage insurance is different because its cost is generally built into the rate rather than shown as a separate cancellable payment.

11PropertyWhat can disqualify a house from a Conventional loan?

Cosmetic wear alone is usually not the issue. The concern is a condition that affects safety, soundness or structural integrity, an illegal or ineligible property characteristic, or—on a condo—an ineligible project. Serious roof failure, active structural damage or another major deficiency may require repair before the loan can close. A renovation loan or different financing path may be appropriate when the property cannot qualify as-is.

12Florida condosCan a Florida condo project be denied even when I am approved?

Yes. On a Florida condo purchase, the borrower and the project both have to qualify. The review can include the association’s budget and reserve funding, master insurance, delinquent assessments, litigation and deferred structural maintenance. A strong borrower cannot fix an ineligible project. I want the condo review started early, and I strongly prefer a financing contingency long enough to complete it. Recent closings in the project can help, but they are not a guarantee that today’s documents will pass.

13OccupancyCan I use a Conventional loan for a second home or investment property?

Yes. Conventional financing can cover a primary residence, an eligible second home and eligible investment properties, including some 2–4 unit properties. Occupancy changes the down payment, pricing and reserve expectations. It also has to be truthful: a property represented as a second home cannot secretly be operated as a full-time rental. You may have more than one conventional loan, but every mortgage, reserve requirement and financed property has to fit the qualification.

14Self-employedHow is self-employed income calculated for a Conventional loan?

The lender does not qualify you from gross revenue or from what hits the business bank account. The tax returns, business structure, ownership, cash flow and income trend determine what can be used, with eligible adjustments such as depreciation considered under the guidelines. Two years of returns is standard. One year may be permitted when the applicable business has existed for at least five years and the other requirements are met. I calculate this before underwriting because declining income or the wrong documentation can change the answer.

15Bank statementsDo mortgage lenders look at my bank statements?

Yes, when those accounts are being used to document the down payment, closing costs or reserves. The lender verifies ownership, balances and transaction history and may ask about a large or unusual deposit when its source matters to the purchase. Do not move money between accounts, deposit undocumented cash or borrow funds without first asking how the paper trail will be documented.

16Closing costsCan the seller pay my Conventional closing costs?

An eligible seller contribution can generally cover closing costs and prepaid items within limits that depend on occupancy and loan-to-value. It does not replace the required down payment. The allowable amount is measured against the lower of the purchase price or appraised value, and an excess contribution can become a sales concession that changes the underwriting. A higher price can also increase borrowing and interest, so I compare the actual credit, price and payment instead of assuming the concession is free.

17Before closingWhat should I avoid doing after preapproval?

Call me before changing jobs, financing a car or furniture, opening or co-signing credit, moving large sums of money or making an unusual deposit. A lender may refresh credit and reverify employment before closing. New debt, a higher card balance, late payment or compensation change can alter the debt ratio, credit score, pricing or approval.

18ShoppingDo all lenders offer the same Conventional mortgage rate?

No. Fannie Mae and Freddie Mac set guidelines, not the price. Market pricing, credit and loan-level adjustments, points or lender credits, company margin and compensation, lender fees, the lock period and the loan’s characteristics all move the final number. Compare written Loan Estimates using the same loan details, rate-lock assumptions, points, credits and fees.

19PayoffCan I pay off a Conventional loan early?

Standard conforming financing normally permits extra principal payments or an early payoff without a prepayment penalty. Non-agency conventional products can follow different terms, so the loan documents control. Before a sale, refinance or large payoff, request an official payoff statement and confirm the terms with the lender or servicer.

Still not your question?

There is no such thing as a stupid mortgage question.

Ask it before closing, while the options can still be changed.

CFPB — PMI cancellationFannie Mae — self-employed incomeFannie Mae — condo project statusCFPB — compare Loan Estimates

Complete reference

The complete Florida Conventional loan guide—without making you read it all.

Most borrowers do not need every rule below. Open the chapter that matches your file. If one detail changes the answer, ask me before you assume the guideline works the way it did for someone else.

01

Foundation

What kind of Conventional loan is this?

Start here for the agency, credit framework, unit count and loan-limit lane.
01Conventional versus conforming

A Conventional loan is simply a mortgage that is not insured or guaranteed by a government agency such as FHA, VA or USDA. A conforming loan is a Conventional loan that also meets Fannie Mae or Freddie Mac requirements, including the applicable loan limit. Every conforming loan is Conventional; not every Conventional loan is conforming.

A loan above the national baseline may still be a high-balance conforming loan if it stays within the property's applicable county limit. Above that county limit, I compare Jumbo financing under a different pricing and underwriting framework.

02Fannie Mae and Freddie Mac

Fannie Mae and Freddie Mac are the two government-sponsored enterprises that buy conforming loans from lenders. They publish the eligibility rules and run the automated underwriting systems — Desktop Underwriter and Loan Product Advisor — that most Conventional files are submitted to.

They set the guidelines. They do not set your rate: pricing comes from the market, the loan-level adjustments applied to your file, and the individual lender's own margin and fees.

03Credit scores and automated underwriting in 2026

Starting November 15, 2025, Fannie Mae's Desktop Underwriter no longer requires a minimum third-party credit score, and Freddie Mac does not require a minimum Indicator Score for an Accept Mortgage. Both systems assess the borrower's credit reputation as part of the complete file rather than gating on one number.

That is a change in how the agencies evaluate credit — not an announcement that credit no longer matters. Lender, mortgage-insurance and program overlays may still apply and are frequently tighter than the agency framework, which is why approximately 620 remains a common practical starting point in the real market.

Credit score also remains highly relevant to pricing and to mortgage insurance. A file can clear automated underwriting and still be priced very differently from a stronger one, so the score belongs in the cost conversation even where it is no longer a hard cutoff.

04One- to four-unit financing and loan limits

Conventional financing covers one- to four-unit properties. Unit count changes the loan limit, loan-to-value limits, reserve requirements and how rental income is treated.

The standard 2026 baseline conforming limits are $832,750 for one unit, $1,066,250 for two, $1,288,800 for three and $1,601,750 for four. Designated high-cost counties can carry higher limits. A loan above the national baseline is not automatically Jumbo; confirm the applicable county and unit-count limit for the property.

02

The borrower

How will the file be documented?

Income, self-employment, assets, reserves and major-credit-event timing live here.
01Income documentation

Qualifying income has to be stable, documentable and reasonably likely to continue. Salaried income is generally the most straightforward; a job history shorter than two years does not automatically disqualify a salaried borrower.

Bonus, overtime, commission and tip income are evaluated on their history and trend. A two-year history is preferred, and current Fannie Mae guidance can allow no less than 12 months when positive factors support the shorter history. Documented new-employment offers and contracts can also be used under specific requirements.

02Self-employed borrowers

Two years of self-employment is the standard history. Some borrowers with at least 12 months in the current business may be considered when prior related income and the rest of the requirements support it.

Qualifying income for a self-employed borrower is calculated from the returns and the business performance, not from deposits or revenue. Two businesses with identical gross receipts can produce very different qualifying income.

03Assets, reserves and gift funds

Assets have to be documented and sourced. Reserves — the money left after closing, measured in months of housing payment — are a real underwriting factor, and they matter more on second homes, investment properties and multi-unit files.

Gift funds from an eligible donor can be used on many Conventional transactions, with a documented gift letter and a traceable transfer. Large deposits that cannot be sourced create conditions and delays, which is why the paper trail matters from the first statement onward.

04Bankruptcy, foreclosure and short-sale waiting periods

Standard Fannie Mae waiting periods run from a specific completion, discharge or dismissal date — not from when the trouble began. Chapter 7 or 11 bankruptcy is commonly four years from discharge or dismissal, and potentially two with documented extenuating circumstances. Chapter 13 is commonly two years from discharge or four years from dismissal.

Foreclosure is commonly seven years, and potentially three with documented extenuating circumstances and added restrictions. A deed-in-lieu, preforeclosure sale or short sale is commonly four years, and potentially two with documented extenuating circumstances. Multiple events, mortgage debt included in a bankruptcy, disputed reporting and lender overlays all change the answer, so the dates are worth verifying rather than estimating.

03

The property

Can the home and occupancy qualify?

Use this chapter for primary, second-home, investment and Florida condo questions.
01Property occupancy

A primary residence generally receives the strongest pricing and the widest low-down-payment options. A second home has to genuinely be used as a second home — how the property is occupied, how far it is from the primary residence and how it is rented all matter. An investment property is priced for the risk it carries and requires more equity and more reserves.

Occupancy is verified. A property represented as a second home and operated as a full-time rental is a different loan.

02Condominiums

For a Florida condominium, approving the borrower is only half of the file. The project itself is reviewed: the budget and reserve funding, insurance, the owner-occupancy and investor concentration, delinquent assessments, litigation and any deferred structural maintenance.

A project that does not meet agency requirements can end a transaction the borrower was fully approved for, which is why the project review belongs early in a Florida condo purchase and not the week before closing.

04

The structure

How should the costs and timeline fit?

Seller credits, mortgage insurance, loan terms, refinancing and assistance belong here.
01Seller concessions

A seller can contribute toward the buyer's closing costs within limits that depend on occupancy and loan-to-value. The contribution can cover closing costs and prepaid items; it generally cannot be used for the down payment on a Conventional loan.

Concessions above the applicable limit are treated as a reduction in the sales price, which changes the loan amount and the loan-to-value.

02Mortgage-insurance choices and cancellation

Borrower-paid monthly mortgage insurance is the most common option. Single-premium coverage is paid up front, and lender-paid coverage is reflected in a higher interest rate for the life of the loan. Each is a different way of paying for the same coverage.

For many covered loans, a borrower may request cancellation when the scheduled principal balance reaches 80% of the original value, subject to legal and servicing requirements. Automatic termination commonly occurs at the scheduled 78% point when the loan is current, with exceptions. The loan's own disclosure and the servicer control the exact process.

03Refinancing

A Conventional refinance can lower a rate or payment, shorten or extend the term, remove mortgage insurance when the equity supports it, or take cash out against equity. Cash-out is priced differently from a rate-and-term refinance and carries its own loan-to-value limits.

The test is whether the financial benefit supports the cost. A lower rate that takes eleven years to pay back its own closing costs is not automatically a good refinance.

04Fixed and adjustable terms

A fixed-rate loan keeps the principal-and-interest payment predictable. The total housing payment can still change when taxes, insurance or association charges change. A 15- or 20-year fixed builds equity faster at a higher required payment and generally prices better.

An adjustable-rate mortgage carries a fixed period followed by periodic adjustments within defined caps. It can make sense for a genuinely short holding period, and it is a risk decision rather than a rate decision.

05Down-payment-assistance eligibility

Down-payment-assistance programs are administered by state and local agencies and by lenders, each with their own income limits, purchase-price limits, occupancy requirements, homebuyer-education requirements and repayment terms.

Assistance interacts with the first mortgage, so the pairing needs to be reviewed carefully. Eligibility is specific and is never assumed — it is confirmed against the program's current terms.

Reviewed answer librarySelected questions from the 127-answer library127 reviewed questions

Each link opens a detailed answer. Use the topic groups to go deeper without turning the main guide into a wall of links.

Written, reviewed and sourced

About this guide and its sources.

I wrote this from how I actually price and structure Florida Conventional loans. Where the answer depends on an agency rule, I link to the agency. Where it depends on the file, I say so instead of pretending one number guarantees approval.

Educational use

This guide organizes the decision. It is not an approval.

This is Florida-specific educational planning information—not legal, tax or financial-planning advice, and not a loan approval, preapproval, commitment to lend or rate lock. Final eligibility and pricing depend on verified documents, underwriting, the property, mortgage insurance, lender requirements and current program rules.

2026 loan-limit note

A loan above the one-unit baseline is not automatically Jumbo.

The standard 2026 baseline conforming limits are $832,750 for one unit, $1,066,250 for two, $1,288,800 for three and $1,601,750 for four. Designated high-cost counties can carry higher limits, so the property’s county and unit count have to be checked before the loan is classified.
Primary source indexSee the agency guidance behind this page27 source records

Conforming loan limits

Credit policy

Eligibility and consumer guidance